**File Name:** istanbul-blue-mosque-2004.jpg
**ALT Tag:** The impressive architecture and domes of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul, Turkey.
**Caption:**

Taking in the massive scale and history of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul.

Istanbul

Took the night train from Athens to Istanbul to meet our friends Noel Blake and Brian Hall from Seattle. The train would take 24 hours with limited excitement other than a bit of an interesting crossing at the border. Once at the CKG Gare in Istanbul we felt a bit out of place and confused as usual. Numerous attempts at contacting Mustaffah, Noel’s old co-worker who is a doctor in Istanbul and our main contact for hooking up with those guys, finally paid off and they picked us up and took us to the hotel. Not before we could consume a pretty interesting sandwich.

First night Brian, Corey, and I were off to find some fun after a shower in an actual tub/shower combo. Found a pub down the road and partook of the hookah pipe and some Efes beers. A solo traveler from the states joined us and we headed out to the area called Taxsim for some more fun. While in Taxsim we were hounded by people trying to show us around. Mustaffah calls them hunters. They hunt down tourists. One locked into us and followed us around telling us where to go, etc.

We all knew better but couldn’t help but follow his advice. Couldn’t find a good place to just hang out. Our hunter guide found a spot that seemed to be a dance club. Had an odd feeling right off but ignored it probably due to fatigue. Once inside asked how much for drinks and someone calculated it to be about 2 bucks. Soon there were girls at our table, one for each of us. As cool as we all know we are, there was clearly something going on. Turns out we miscalculated by dropping a zero, so the drinks were 20 dollars and one free girl per drink for them which were 30 dollars. We split after one round. Took our medicine and got out. Not before our fellow U.S. comrade got screwed out of another 100 on top of the already outrageous tab. Corey and I went back in to argue for his sake and came up against the 4 or so Russian mafia types. They blocked the entryway and tried to intimidate us, but we managed to get the kid about 40 bucks back. Fun first night out, and a lesson to boot.

First day in Istanbul the 4 of us hit the streets to get lost. We ventured through the Grand Bazaar and it was that and then some. Quite the sights all day. People everywhere, general mayhem about. Made our way to the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofia where we ran across a huge group of Turkish kids that couldn’t get enough of us. Spent a few hours being entertained and entertaining them.

Next day we headed out to the Asian side of Istanbul, via boat. Corey and I ate fresh fish sandwiches from the side of the Bosphorus at the docks. A little odd but good. Great views of the city from the water. The skyline is like none other we’ve seen, with all the jagged mosque outlines. Asian side is more cosmopolitan city surprisingly to all of us. Big business and fashion opposed to the shops and more traditional Muslim on Euro side. Spent the day walking about Asia. Brian got the best shoeshine any of us had seen. The guy spent about 10 minutes a shoe using the flame thrower technique which caught Brian off guard I think.

**File Name:** cappadocia-goreme-caves-2004.jpg
**ALT Tag:** Ancient dwellings carved directly into the stalagmite rock formations in Cappadocia, Turkey.
**Caption:**

Checking into our cave room at the Shoestring Hostel in the unique landscape of Cappadocia.

Goreme & Cappadocia

Last day in Istanbul and we hopped a boat for a tour of the small islands nearby. Nice ride out but got stuck for a later return and were in danger of missing our bus out. We scrambled and made it to the Otogar (bus station) just in time. What a scene the Otogar in Istanbul. Total chaos. Managed to work our way through the Gauntlet and catch a bus to Goreme in central Turkey. Many looks on the bus as we’re the only foreigners. Got scolded we think for playing cards, talking, you name it. Then we all grab Gyros at the first stop and brought them on board. This too didn’t make us any friends. Can’t do anything right so just throw on the headphones and crash out.

They kicked us off the bus in the A.M. as apparently in the chaos we ended up on a bus that didn’t go all the way to our destination. We were all a bit out of it after the all night bus ride and had to hitch a ride on another bus to get all the way to Goreme. Made it and found the Shoestring Hostel a cool little hostel built into the rock caves that make Cappadocia region famous. Crashed in our cave for a couple hours and then Brian, Noel, and I headed out on a tour of Cappadocia on a multi-national bus with 3 Turks, 4 Japanese, 2 Swedes, 2 from Hong Kong, and 1 Slovakian.

First stop was the Pigeon Valley. Cool views of the stalagmite homes built by the Christians who were hiding from the conquerors back in the day. Not a lot is known about the original dwellers of these places however as there is no written history. Did some climbing and had some good laughs over who did and didn’t make it to the summits of the various obstacles and then a good hike through the gorge. Got in trouble for holding up the group after we got sidetracked a couple times. Wrapped it up with the customary visit to the tourist trap sales pitch at the pottery shop.

**File Name:** fethiye-oludeniz-beach-2004.jpg
**ALT Tag:** The clear blue water and rocky shorelines near the beaches of Fethiye, Turkey.
**Caption:**

Exploring the beautiful coastline and islands near Fethiye by boat.

Selcuk & Fethiye

Found a place at the Nur Pansione home of a nice older Turkish woman. Slept a bit while our agent Brian went and saw the sights for us. He made a full report of the ruins, and we decided we could check Ephesus off our to-see list. Spent the afternoon chatting with the locals as they entertained us with tales of their exploits with the tourists. They tried the ‘Antique Coin Trick’ on Corey but being the veteran traveler that he is was wise to it. Took Brian to the Otogar and sent him off for Istanbul. Laid low on our rooftop terrace to read and write a bit.

Had a $1 sandwich in the morning, probably the best dollar sandwich ever, then a bus to Fethiye. Ended up at the OBA Motel in Oludeniz right near the beach. Corey sick and Rob tired so it was a good time to hit the beach and relax for a few days. Our first room was infested with Mosquitos which made for a tough night sleep. Switched the next day and all is good in the world again. This place is a crazy British tourist hell. Rain the next day so a good much needed sleep. Hiked the beach and climbed a nearby mini mountain. Went out to the Sugar Shack for dinner.

Next day out on a boat trip to explore the islands and bays and just lounge on the water. Can’t believe the U.S. is supposedly the most overweight country by the looks of things here. Led the way in diving off the top deck of the boat. Poor new friend of ours, David from Scotland, followed and managed to separate his shoulder. Had to drag him into shore and then sent him off for the hospital by speedboat. Corey and I did some exploring and cliff diving on one of the islands. To dinner at the inland town which is even more a tourist trap.

Corey and I are both worn down and decide to stay one more night to rest up. Not looking forward to the long travels north as we’re in the southwest corner of Turkey trying to get to Austria and Czech Republic. Buses or trains would mean like 3 solid days. Got online to find other options. Managed to find a charter flight from tiny nearby Bodrum to Nuremberg, Germany for about $100. Bus in afternoon to Bodrum. Found place and took to the streets on my own as Corey is laid up. Found an excellent meal of Kofte or grilled meatballs on yogurt and spicy sauce with Pita. Best meal in Turkey. Walked around and caught my first glimpse of the NBA finals. Saw Kobe hit the clutch 3 at end of regulation and go on to win. Then ran into the Dutch crew from the Istanbul hostel. Ended up dancing til late at some club with them. Very fun people. Took shuttle to airport and made it out alive.

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